Last night had dinner with the owner of Kipishya Hot Springs, Mark,and turns out he is the grandson of Sir Stewart Gore-Brown who built Shiwa House which his brother now owns.
They grew up in the house and the hot springs was there week end hide out. In 1995 their parents were murdered in the house by the ANC, they believe because the father was heavy into anti poaching. The author Christina Lamb came to visit and wrote the book Africa House, which has since increased the number of visitors ten fold, he says the book has done wonders for them and put them on the map. His brother was cut out of the will because his wife, who gave me the tour, punched his mother in the face and that was the end of that relationship.
There were also some Aussies from Compass Expeditions plotting alike trip from Cape Town to Uganda back to Cape Town in eighty days, with their own bikes being shipped for $40K !
Seems awfully expensive for accommodation and one meal and you pay for everything else,and supply your own bike, but the tour is sold out, seventeen signed up for next July.
Departed at 6:30am and had 22 miles of dirt road before hitting the tar to Kasama, was typical patched horrible road, hardly any cars but plenty of trucks.
Turned west on D20 to Mporokoso which was the best tar road yet and was able to do 120kmph with no traffic and no cattle whatsoever. Then it ended and the last fifty miles was all dirt through villages and road
conditions were okay with some ugly patches that catch you off guard. Arrived after two hours at Falls, the camp has no running water or any other facilities. Had time to see both falls, which were rather impressive for once, before the rains came.
LUMNGWE FALLS TO NDOLE BAY 255km
After going to sleep at 7:30pm and finally having a good kip was on the road at 6:30am again. Yesterday's road was now soaked and with plenty of muddy sections which kicked my ass. No sooner have you fallen and people appear out of nowhere and eager to help.
Went back on the same fifty mile road to Mporokoso and then north to Ndole Bay on 180km of real good dirt road with no animals passing through many villages.
Street market, where a drunk disgruntled man chewed me out for going to fast.
The woman do all the work.
The woman do all the work.
From restaurant looking down at Lake Tanganyika.
Tomorrow 14th November 22, plan to take the boat to Mopumulungu then the following day will be in Tanzania.
Posted some videos - Roy Cape to Cairo on YouTube.
I don't think you can put them on a blog, my new IT guru from Portugal was meant to have sorted out all the issues and blend everything here, but looks like she has failed again.
Go fall off several times over!!! Put all the mangoes on your right hand pannier. I'm doing my best!!!! It is raining here and I have no solar..I'm having to go to bars to charge a phone to help you out!!!
ReplyDeleteDear Roy, I am now back in Russia.
ReplyDeleteThe waterfalls look amazing
ReplyDeleteLovely pictures - so clean looking - good luck entering Tanzania
ReplyDeleteMake me an admin and I will sort it!!!
ReplyDeleteSwahili lumber cutters
ReplyDelete